Wednesday, 11 September 2013

The Advanced Crafts week 4th - 11th August 2013


The Advanced Crafts week ran a few weeks back. This is definitely a highlight of the year for me and the 2013 course was the best attended we've had so far in the five years it's been running. For the students, it's an experience to work up to for sure, as it both confirms and develops previously gained survival skills and moves further towards long term survival and self reliance in the wilds. The course is hard work, it takes no prisoners so a basic standard of survival and bushcraft experience must be acquired before signing up. The Advanced Crafts student must already have built and lived in a natural shelter, know how to light fire in all weathers, make and use a bow drill fire lighting set, handle sharp cutting tools efficiently and safely, prepare and cook wild game and fish, have a working knowledge of wild foods, making cordage from natural materials and carving green wooden items such as spoons and spatulas. Our annual course program is arranged in such a way that the necessary experience can be gained in the early part of the year through the Wilderness Awakening five day course or even a combination of a Bushcraft Weekend and several day courses to get up to speed in more specific areas not covered during the weekend. Students may already have the skills required, gained through other schools or their own learning. Many students sign up for both the Wilderness Awakening and the Advanced Crafts week together and use the time between courses to practice skills and build on knowledge.

So, what can they expect from the week? Arrival (as with most of our courses) is around 7pm the evening before to allow time for late arrivals and give the students a chance to settle in. A detailed briefing plus a few words of advice are given around the campfire with a chance to iron out any creases and ask questions. The following morning all excess kit must be left back at camp and armed only with a handful of key items, the students head off to build a home for the coming week. Shelter design is important and students have several considerations which contribute towards this. Firstly, they only have one wool blanket each as bedding. They also have limited tools (small knife and folding saw), must build something that they can sleep, live, cook and work in for the whole week. They have a heavy daily workload but must cook all their own meals too. It's no surprise that everyone decides on a group shelter of some sort to spread the load!


 
 Food is supplied for the first day but it must be cooked before being eaten. The only available method of lighting fire is the bow and drill and with all the materials needing to gathered from the woods on the day, this becomes a high priority group effort. Many students, already proficient in this area are surprised at how increased pressure and fewer calories (resulting in less energy) affect their bow drilling efforts. However, there is no other choice so one way or another, the fire always gets lit...and once it does it's never allowed to go out!


Fire means warmth and light at night, a means to preserve food, hot drinks, dry clothing and of course FOOD!


The general theme of the week is going beyond the basics for survival outdoors and looking at crafts and advanced skills which improve the quality of the outdoors man or woman. Shelter building, bed making, fire building and maintenance, cooking wild foods...all these subjects are most definitely crafts and should be developed to a higher level. This is why the challenge of day one is included....and it gives the instructors the chance to put their feet up and have a brew.


Day one is a wake up call for sure but the feeling of satisfaction at having achieved such a huge amount in such a relatively short time is immense. Relaxation time is short lived however as the following morning begins with a large game butchery session, followed by the first stages of hide preparation in order to make buckskin, rawhide or hair on hides/furs. The whole week is a whirlwind of advanced bush crafts and traditional skills instruction, all of it practical and hands on, everyone getting involved with their own projects. In addition to this, the students have to cook for themselves (all ingredients are provided, any wild game still needs preparing, some meals require foraged ingredients to be included). They also have to consider their basic needs such as improving their shelter's weatherproofing, plumping up their natural mattresses and keeping their central heating chugging away through the night. All of this requires some good old fashioned hard graft - nobody else is going to come along and do it for them.



The various crafts included are based on a logical progression of the students existing skill set. Making use of wild game by-products (sinews, skins, furs, bones and antlers) to make clothing, equipment, cordage and tools makes perfect sense so traditional hide working features heavily. By the end of the week, each student will have made their own brain tan, smoked buckskin from start to finish.



Weaving natural materials into baskets, containers and fish traps is a natural progression of learning how to manipulate and shape plant fibres into string, rope, bender shelters. Students had a choice this year of learning how to weave a basket or a fish trap. The skills needed to do both are very similar so although the end result is different, the valuable skills developed in achieving it are the same. Our goal is to send everyone away with a grasp of each skill shown during the week - anything they've made is really considered a bonus.



The axe is a hugely important tool of the backwoodsman or woman. The safe felling, limbing, splitting and sectioning of small trees is included in the schedule as well as finer carving techniques. In addition to this, more advanced carving techniques are shown such as the use of curved gouges, hollowing hand tools and holding devices made on site...the end result being that every student takes home a wooden cup or bowl too!



Lastly, with sharp edged tools featuring so heavily during all of our courses along with the need to feel capable and self sufficient, maximising the use of natural resources, we couldn't run a week like this without including a day of working flint to make sharp tools. Flint knapping is extremely technical so students shouldn't expect to be able to craft a Danish crested dagger by the end of the week but they can get a good grasp of the theories behind breaking rocks and obtaining useable, incredibly sharp flakes. Refining techniques are also covered for those who get the bug and wish to take it further.



The last day is set aside for consolidation of the craft projects started during the week. It's usually a blur of whittling, weaving, carving and hafting flint arrow heads into shafts. All too quickly the week is over but the evidence of everyone's hard work is easy to see! I like to think of this course doing a damn good job of turning out students who have a much better understanding of bush craft, a more complete picture and a greater personal experience of exactly what is required to live comfortably out doors with very little. It helps complete the jigsaw and gives all those attending a real appreciation of how every tree, plant and creature can, and has helped us through the ages and how important they should be in everyones lives.


For more images taken during the Advanced Crafts week, check out the facebook gallery for that course here.
 
Next stop...the Hunter Gatherer week!
 
 
 
 

Thursday, 29 August 2013

Putting together a realistic survival kit and ‘grab bag’:




It is my firm belief that the forward thinking outdoors person should always strive to develop his or her knowledge and improvisational abilities before relying on a survival kit. However, as any boy scout worth his salt will tell you we should always be prepared when heading off the beaten track. Carrying an ‘off the shelf’ survival kit of some sort will tick that preparedness box and the classic survival tin comes up trumps as a very small, lightweight and unobtrusive option. However, the user must still have specialized training in order to use it effectively to improvise shelter, create warmth by lighting a fire, turn the little hooks and line into a fish supper and so on. As an emergency pocket kit in an environment where shelter building materials, water and fire wood are available the tin comes into it’s own but surrounded by natural resources, the properly prepared survivor should already feel confident that their knowledge, training and experience could compensate for many of the items in the tin (although a good knife and cooking pot would be handy…). For adventurous types planning to head out into the wilderness it makes a lot of sense to spend time contemplating what situation they’re most likely to have to survive in the first place!

I base my survival kit around the conditions found in the wilder, more remote parts of the UK and similar environments, where one or more nights on an exposed hill side, possibly injured, possibly lost with limited available materials for fire lighting and shelter construction are potentially lethal and fairly commonplace. I also base it on some sound advice from Mors Kochanski, that the wise outdoors person should always carry enough equipment and clothing to sit out a storm or potential survival situation in relative comfort until rescued or can rescue themselves. Relative comfort! Those are two words most people wouldn’t expect to hear in conjunction with an article about survival kits! It’s a lot to ask from such a small package but the makings of a good kit should include…

  • Effective and immediate protection from the elements
  • A method of providing external warmth and/or maximizing body-heat retention
  • Equipment to call in rescue or alert potential rescuers
  • Equipment to gather and sterilize water
  • Equipment to repair kit or improvise using locally found materials
  • Direction finding equipment
  • Some basic first aid kit
  • An emergency ration

 Now, this is an article I’ve written before a few years back but circumstances, knowledge and kit are always changing so
the contents of my own survival kit have recently been updated slightly. The superb team at Alpkit sent me a few
goodies, some of which I already use as part of my standard kit and some which I hadn’t had the chance to use yet.
You’ll see many of them listed here.

As stated previously, my kit is based on reality and also ease of use. Rather than being something I squirrel away on the off
chance I’ll fall out of a plane and land in the Amazonian jungle, my survival kit has many items in that are used more
regularly. They are just arranged in a way that will (hopefully) ensure I have the most important bits with me when it
matters. It’s a two stage system; stage one features a small but comprehensive bag of ‘bits and bobs’ easily plucked from
my main rucksack and carried on my person in a situation where I might not want to carry my main pack or might
not be able to (travelling cross country in a vehicle, crossing a river or mucking about in a canoe). It is designed to provide
everything needed for survival in an unexpected situation on it’s own but also form the foundations of any outdoor kit list,
no matter how big or small, providing a sensible bridge between the tiny pocket kit and a full complement of gear.
 
Stage two is a ‘grab bag’ which is larger but allows for greater scope, even to the extent of it being a ‘grab and go’
lightweight daysack for micro adventures. It covers most emergency eventualities and even holds a few luxuries for day to
day use. Both the ‘bits and bobs’ bag and the ‘grab bag’ can be carried at the top of a main pack (all your essential kit in one
 neat package) or as a standalone emergency/unexpected hike into the hills lightweight kit kept in the car. In the winter, I’ll
often swap the Nalgene bottle for a stainless steel flask of hot chocolate and carry the grab bag as my lightweight running
pack when heading off the beaten track.
 
So, the stage one ‘bits and bobs’ bag…..
 
 
 
I use an Alpkit ‘airlok xtra’ 3 litre stuff sack. These are tough little roll top dry bags with well thought out fixing points for
lashing them to your pack, mountain bike etc. They come with an handy webbing strap but I like to use 550 paracord,
doubled over instead. This makes a fine ‘baldric’ style across the body carry strap but can also be taken off and used for
spare boot laces, shelter building or any number of strong cordage related tasks (I once witnessed a couple of crazy Para’s
abseiling out of a window on a doubled over length, although I strongly recommend you don’t do this…). The airlock range
also come in red, which makes a first rate first aid kit bag. Being fairly heavy duty means that they float pretty well if
accidentally dropped in the water (sealed obviously) but are also great as an emergency water carrier with just under 3 litres
capacity!

All the following items fit inside this bag…
 
 
 
1.  Alpkit ‘Mytimug’, a titanium mug complete with lid. A lot of the smaller items fit inside this incredibly lightweight but strong boiling vessel. A metal mug rates highly among my survival items – through personal experimentation I’ve found that it’s one of the few items you’ll struggle to improvise effectively from nature…but so important for sterilizing water and cooking food.

2.  A good headtorch (this one’s an Alpkit ‘manta’) with spare batteries. Carry another in your main pack and treat this one as back up. When you’re out in the hills and your main torch batteries die, you’ll want to be able to do a straight swap for another good quality lighting system rather than fiddle about changing batteries in the cold darkness!

3.  Heliograph signal mirror

4.  ‘Mylar’ reflective survival blanket. Extremely small and lightweight but will offer protection from the elements while maximizing retention of your radiated body heat too.

5.  Lightweight orange plastic survival bag by BCB. Provides additional protection as a bivi bag, can be slit open and made into a shelter sheet or even weighted down with rocks as a highly visible marker panel for rescue aircraft

6.  Mesh, insect proof headnet. Additionally useful as a ‘shopping bag’ for foraged food, catching fish, melting snow, bank robbers disguise

7.  Small tin of highly effective insect repellent (this one is by Nordic Summer). This is one of those items that can’t really be classed as a survival item but you’ll be glad of it once you’re out in the woods

8.  A good quality multi tool. Several cutting options with a mini tool kit attached and the pliers are a real bonus too. Not meant to be a work horse but handy for light use or in an emergency

9.  Pocket sharpening system. Again, not essential for survival but it’s tiny, weighs virtually nothing and handy to have if you use sharp cutting tools a lot. This one is a Fallkniven DC4

10.  Fire lighting kit:  Swedish ‘scout’ fire steel, lifeboat matches, some fat wood (highly resinous pine) and waxed tinder card. Fire steels give a huge shower of hot sparks, are virtually ever lasting, work even when wet and can be used in a gloved fist if dexterity is beginning to go in cold conditions. Can also be used to signal for a long way on a dark hill side. I also pack a candle - will make a snow cave feel like ‘home’ and raise the temperature a couple of degrees too

11.  A small but proper Silva compass plus a good quality whistle for alerting rescuers. The internationally recognized distress signal is six whistle blasts in quick succession followed by a minutes silence to listen for a response. Even after a response keep whistling until found!

12.  Power bars as a high energy emergency ration

13.  Water purification tablets and a large transparent plastic bag. The bag can be used to collect rain water and as a transpiration bag for collecting evaporating water from non-poisonous foliage. I also include several paper coffee filters as a lightweight filtering system

14.  Trapping and fishing kit:  Several brass wire rabbit snares (pre-dulled) and some strong line, small hooks and lead weights. It’s unlikely you’ll need to use these items but you never know…and they’re incredibly useful for making running repairs on your gear

15.  Repair kit:  More 550 paracord, some incredibly thin but strong ‘comms’ cord and a small roll of gaffa tape. Gaffa tape mends waterproof clothing, holds kit together, straps up a twisted ankle. Nuff said! Assorted needles and strong thread are also included but more for clothing repairs than ‘Rambo’ style surgery…hopefully.

16.  Very basic pocket first aid kit – purple Nitrile gloves (for dealing with other group members), a wound irrigation wash, tweezers and tick remover, assorted plasters, antiseptic wipes, steri strips, safety pins, asprin and a small field dressing for larger wounds. I’ve also included a small packet of ‘Celox' a haemostatic clotting agent for serious bleeding

A small but perfectly formed first aid kit
 
 
 

(above) The kit packed up ready to be stowed away. Key items that are most likely to be needed first are kept separate and near the top, easy to locate. The black cordura belt pouch holds the multi tool and sharpening stone. The unpacked kit as it is shown here could all be either worn as separate items on a belt or carried in the pockets of a jacket leaving the airlock bag to be used as a 3 litre water carrier
 
 

 
(above) The kit packed and ready for business, shown next to a mobile phone for scale. Love them or loathe them, you would have to be barmy in this day and age to head off into the wilderness without a fully charged mobile phone!


Stage two, the grab bag:

 
Many bushcraft or military style rucksacks feature removable side pouches with straps that can be used as a grab bag but I like to carry something made for the job. The excellent Alpkit ‘Gourdon’ dry bag day sacks are ideal. Lightweight, waterproof and fitted with comfy straps, mesh pockets and a shockcord stowage system – this is a LOT of daysack for the cash! I like to carry it in the main compartment of my rucksack, near the top as I find this better for weight distribution, especially if my main pack isn’t loaded up for a long trip. Strapping it to the side or slotting it into a side pocket can unbalance things a bit.

The grab bag has my ‘bits and bobs, survival kit forming the foundations of the pack, which has most eventualities covered. With the addition of some very lightweight but completely useable items of kit, an unplanned night on the hill would only cause minor embarrassment rather than hypothermia.

 

  1. ‘Bits and bobs, survival kit
  2. Alpkit ‘Gourdon’ 20 litre waterproof day sack (they also do a 25 litre version and several other, brighter colours for outdoor folk who want to be seen). The back system is simple but even so, features a removable pad for using as insulation between your bum and the cold ground
  3. The fantastic ‘Blizzard Bag’ a vacuum packed survival bag with a warmth rating of a medium weight sleeping bag!
  4. Fully charged mobile phone in a waterproof pouch – I normally carry mine in one of the mesh pockets, tethered to the pack
  5. Extremely warm, hooded jacket. This one is the Alpkit Filo jacket with supreme goose down fill. It squashes down incredibly small and weighs next to nothing. I keep a thin merino wool hat and windproof fleece gloves in the pockets
  6. Nalgene bottle with additional Mytimug fitting snugly on the outside giving additional cookability or just a more readily accessible mug for brews
  7. A lightweight, breathable bivi bag for total weather protection out in the open. This one is (you guessed it..) the Alpkit ‘Hunka' which squashes down into it’s own mesh pocket (as shown). An alternative for forest environments might be a lightweight tarp such as the rig 7, or even a lightweight waterproof poncho with attached guy lines for more versatility
 
Alpkit 'Hunka' and 'Filo' jacket

  1. Brew kit, high energy snacks, food for the day, spoon. I also carry a small pack of solid fuel tablets in here with a folding burner and flexible foil windshield for environments where lighting a fire might not be possible
  2. Belt knife and folding saw, for bushcraftin’
  3. Warm hat made from an old wool jumper! It doesn’t all have to be hi-tech…

The above list is assuming that a waterproof jacket is already being worn and a waterproofed map and user compass, carried. Both the waterproof jacket and map case could easily be lashed to the outside of the lightweight pack if needs be, by using the attached shockcord system and mesh pockets.


The grab bag packed and ready to go


Hopefully this article will be of use to you – I’m sure anyone who heads out into the wilds regularly will already have most, if not all of this kit. All I offer here are some tried and tested items of lightweight kit that I use and a packing system that ensures you have key, essential items with you when you need them.

 
Happy wandering!





Monday, 29 July 2013

A week in the wilds part 2: Living from the land




Previously on ‘A Week in the Wilds’…..(to be said in a silly deep voice..)

So far I had set off into an unfamiliar woodland, equipped with only a small knife, folding pocket saw, stainless steel cooking pot, a three metre length of parachute cord, a cloth bag for filtering water, several brass wire snares, some personal safety equipment (first aid kit, torch, method of communication in an emergency due to the solo nature of the challenge) a modest quantity of wild meat and the clothes I stood up in (all natural fibres, some home-made).

Day one had seen me find a suitable campsite, source water, create fire by friction, build my shelter and bed from scratch, filter and sterilize the stream water, stock up on prime fire wood, butcher my muntjac deer, eat some muntjac deer and preserve the remainder by smoking. My first night without any sleeping gear was bearable with periods of peaceful slumber interrupted by waking due to the cold. The fire would be built up high again (thanks to a fair amount of fuel wood preparation during the day) and peaceful slumber would descend upon me once more. Day one had been a challenging and tiring day with the end result being only to have provided myself with the absolute bare essentials for survival outdoors. A roof over our heads, warmth, water, food, protection – these are all things we take for granted yet it had taken me all my effort, a whole day of hard work and several years of training to accomplish this seemingly simple set of requirements. My strategy had gone pretty much exactly to plan. Any minor failure at this early stage would’ve set a disastrous domino effect in motion.
Home sweet home in the deep dark woods
 
Of course, I put any success mainly down to the years of training and a positive and confident approach to the situation but there’s no denying that a certain amount of luck played a part too. A couple of hours of heavy rain in the morning might’ve painted a very different picture…
 

 Day two:

Although in survival terms, food comes right down at the bottom of the priority list, I knew that my hard graft to get ahead of the game on day one would all go to waste if I ignored my daily calorie intake at this stage. Rather than just purely survival, the object of this week in the wilds was to see how truly self-sufficient we could be relying mainly on natural resources. I knew that any easily converted energy stores within my body would’ve been used on day one for building shelter, lighting the fire, getting through the first night. It would be a while before my body started tapping into alternative stored energy (fat and muscle glycogen) and in the meantime, just keeping the fire going and staying hydrated (can’t access aforementioned alternative stored energy sources without adequate hydration) would be a slow and sluggish slog. To continue improving my situation rather than just lie in my shelter waiting for endex, I would need to invest my time and remaining energy in obtaining some quality carbohydrates. It has been said that fat burns in a carbohydrate flame meaning that even a relatively small amount of carbohydrate daily would help tap into my more than adequate energy reserves. The ultra-lean venison I had slowly spinning in the smoke from my fire could be only be considered as prime quality protein for helping to re-build tired muscles, an essential part of a balanced diet and daily calorific intake and several useful by-products (raw hide, sinew, bone) but not really an energy boost.





Nonetheless, with a breakfast of skewered venison and a few handfuls of sugar rich blackberries, fully hydrated on murky but boiled stream water, the fire banked up with slow burning oak, I set off with an empty daysack to discover what natures supermarket had to offer.  From my initial recce I knew that the tiny stream bordering the woods linked in with a couple of ponds out in the open fields, a potential habitat for Greater Reedmace. Greater Reedmace or Cattails (Typha latifolia L) is a supreme survival food. Stacked full of starchy carbohydrates, easy to recognise, relatively easy to harvest, found all over the place and pretty much throughout the year it was number one on my shopping list. I made my way there slowly through the woods, ever vigilant for an opportunity along the way. A prolific patch of wood sorrel provided a tangy treat and although I had a good amount of dry tinder squirreled away back at the shelter, it made sense to grab a few handfuls of clematis bark when spotted and stash them away in my pockets.
 

Wood Sorrel (Oxalis acetosella)
 

As the open fields came into view, I slowed right down, hanging back in the shadows to see what wildlife might be going about it’s business. I’d already found deer tracks along with squirrel, badger and fox sign but nothing seemed to be out and about in that particular field. Didn’t matter though, the Reedmace could be clearly seen filling the boggy hollow between this field and the next. After a good check to see if there were any other toxic lookalikes or potential pollutants upstream, I set to filling my daysack with food.
Greater Reedmace (Typha latifolia L)
 
The most energy rich part of Reedmace is the rhizome, an underwater root system which twists and winds it’s way through the murky pond mud linking up and inter-twining with it’s surrounding counterparts. It’s important to trace this rhizome from tip to source and pull the whole thing up. For starters you’ll want the whole plant to make a positive ID but also, there are other parts which are of use to the forager. The long, wide, flat leaves are good for weaving food preparation mats, cordage and woven containers, the dried stems can be used as a delicate hand drill for friction fires and the brown, sausage like heads broken open and used as tinder or clothing insulation (old dead ones are best).
Nutritious pollen from the forming reedmace head
 

If you have a reedmace stand nearby to where you live, keep a close eye on them in early summer. While the heads are still green and just emerging from the leaves (so not all that obvious to the untrained eye) a bright yellow pollen spike can be found proudly sitting on the top. With a tap and a shake over a collection device (plastic bag) this yellow pollen can be gathered in quantity. Mix it up to a paste with clean water, cook it on a hot rock or in a pan and you have an extremely tasty and nutritious yellow biscuit. I’d missed that particular boat with this crop but didn’t hold back gathering the rhizomes. Although the novelty of delving around in the cold, stinking mud for slimy roots began to wear off almost immediately and I was constantly aware of needing to get back before the fire went out, I gathered as many as I could carry knowing that repeated trips back and forth would be a waste of valuable energy.


Foraged fare: blackberries, plantain, dandelion, hairy bitter cress, burdock root and reedmace

 

On the return trip, looking like a human cattail stand, I grabbed a good quantity of blackberries, some wood hedgehog fungi, a couple of common puffballs, plenty of dandelion, mint, thistle, ribwort plantain and nettle leaves and a couple of burdock roots. The burdock roots were a calculated risk as despite also being packed with starchy carbohydrates they’re much harder to harvest than the reedmace but these looked like big ‘uns and the ground was soft and easy to dig. I also took a good quantity of the huge leaves (less than 50% of the leaves off each plant to lessen any impact) to help patch up any dodgy areas on my shelter roof and also use as toilet paper should the need arise! One big burdock leaf became a makeshift blackberry basket with some on the spot origami and a sharpened twig. The dandelion leaves are normally quite bitter if eaten raw but these were growing under a tall crop of red clover which had done a good job of shading them from the sun, accidentally ‘blanching’ them nicely. Eating fungi as a survival food is another risky and quite pointless strategy. Nutritionally and calorifically they are pretty poor and the chances of gathering a toxic lookalike are high, however puffballs and wood hedgehogs are both easy to recognise if you know what to look for and difficult to confuse with anything dangerous (puffballs must be completely white inside with no yellowing or signs of an immature mushroom forming). The taste and texture would be a welcome addition to my survival stew!

 

Common Puffball (lycoperdon perlatum)
 
Ribwort Plantain (Plantago lanceolata)

The humble blackberry but what a fantastic, sugary 'pick me up'

Wood Hedgehog mushroom (Hydnum repandum)
 
Weighed down with foraged goodies I re-entered camp and re-kindled my dying fire using the clematis bark. After working so hard to make fire and relying on it to fulfil so many roles during the week, the thought of walking away and leaving it to die down is terrifying but knowing how to correctly manage a fire is almost as much of an important skill as knowing how to light it in the first place. Seasoned oak as a fuel wood along with a well-protected fire place meant that the heart of the fire would stay hot for a long time, certainly hot enough to ignite the finely shredded clematis bark. Building the fire up big on one side of the fireplace allowed me to pull embers and hot ash across to the other side for cooking. I suspended my billycan above the flames to boil water for a mint tea while more skewered venison roasted slowly above the embers. A slack handful of reedmace rhizomes were placed straight in the embers and hot ash at the edge of the fire to steam the starch rich fibres in their own skins, like a long stringy baked potato…sort of.

Reedmace rhizomes cooking in their skins, straight on the embers
 

Once cooked (normally until the outer skin is charred) the stringy fibres are sucked and sucked and sucked…to remove the starch. It’s a weird way of eating something, almost like the reverse of chewing gum. You’re getting the goodness but without the pleasure and satisfaction of actually chewing something! Even so, I had re-booted my system with much needed energy and filled my belly with a hot meal and felt ready for anything.
Reedmace rhizomes cooked. Check out the starch packed fibres!
 
Although this ‘survival situation’ was self-imposed, putting that energy to good use was still very much a matter of prioritising. Before getting too excited, I took everything right back to basics and concentrated first and foremost on the essentials… shelter, protection and warmth during the coming night. My lean to roof had a few more armfuls of leaf mulch placed carefully to plug the gaps, the sides of my open fronted shelter were closed in using burdock leaves and bracken. My log wall heat reflector was extended to fully enclose the heat of the fire within my shelter walls and I cut, gathered and stacked the best fuel wood I could find so as to be within easy reach of my bed during the night. My mattress benefitted from another thick layer of leaves too. All the while my billycan simmered away over the fire. As soon as the water came to a rolling boil it was taken off the heat, mint leaves added, cooled as rapidly as possible and drunk whether I felt like I needed to or not. Then more stream water was gathered in the millbank filter bag, allowed to slowly drain through into the billy and placed back over the fire to boil while I worked - survival multi-tasking!
Feeding long lengths of fuel wood into the fire, saves a lot of sawing!
 
One big part of this whole experiment for me was to go beyond the survival stage and start thinking about self-reliance for an extended period. Essentially, identifying problems and finding solutions for them. This water routine threw up a glaring issue; with only one metal pot acting as water boiling device, drinking cup and liquid storage vessel my plans for using precious energy as efficiently as possible were hugely limited. In addition to the 'one pot' clean drinking water issue, having a metal pot to boil up a survival stew was probably my best cooking strategy. Boiling helped release starches from carbohydrate rich foods, the tougher cuts of venison could be made more digestible, infusing wild food stuffs with the more delicate wild flavourings would be easier and any greens included in the stew would be less bitter with loss of nutritional goodness minimised due to being able to guzzle down the liquid they were cooked in. Conclusion…not only was a metal cooking pot proving to be absolutely essential (perhaps second only to a good knife, or even level pegging) but what options did I have without it? Also, even with a metal cooking pot, how could I increase my own efficiency by improvising other supplementary equipment to drink and eat from and store water in once sterilized?

 
 
One possible solution to the above problem; a birch bark bucket and super heated rocks acting as a heating element to boil the water without a metal pot

As I pondered, I got to work on the venison meat smoking over my fire. The smoke had kept insects at bay and had sealed the outside of the meat to a degree but if I wanted it to last longer then it would need to be ‘jerked’. Making jerky involves slicing meat as thinly as possible then drying it as speedily as possible without cooking the meat. Your aim is to reduce the moisture content considerably to prevent spoiling. Drying in the sun will do this but drying in the smoke of a fire has the added advantage of keeping flies at bay and flavouring the meat at the same time. In the shade of the woods, this would be my best option. Above my fire was a handy, smoky spot where a couple of long sticks were suspended. These became my drying/smoking rack and anything that needed to be dried or smoked was laid across them, jerky, elder berries, buckskin moccasins, reedmace leaves (better to weave with if they’re dried first then dampened before weaving). The jerky only took a couple of days until it was good to go and if I was hungry during the time it took to dry fully, I took off a couple of the thicker pieces and boiled them up in a stew. 
Venison jerky and elderberries slowly drying in the smoke of the campfire
 
My survival stews were pretty good actually; peeled and sliced burdock root, sliced and diced reedmace rhizomes, dandelion, thistle, nettle, plantain leaves, hedgehog mushrooms, the oak smoked venison jerky and some lovely hairy bitter cress to pepper it up a bit. One particularly good breakfast involved slow cooking the venison shanks by suspending them on a withy to one side of the fire from about five in the morning. By breakfast time this normally tough cut of meat was juicy and tender like spare ribs…it’s making me hungry just thinking about it!
Conclusion:
I have undertaken types of similar survival training in the past, most of which have involved an element of living from the land but what made this experience different? For me, prior extensive training helped greatly. A combination of taking time to gain more of an understanding of what my body needs to function combined with an increased knowledge of wild foods…not just which plants are edible but their food values, available nutrition, energy expended during harvesting; this information is important to help you target certain species over others, therefore minimizing time wasting and energy expenditure by bumbling around the woods grabbing randomly at the local flora. An increased skill level in ALL areas, including wild food foraging made the whole process seem easier, more within my comfort zone (as you would hope..) thereby giving me the headspace needed to make sensible decisions. Stocking up during my initial foraging foray was definitely a good move too. Repeated trips back and forth would have had a negative impact on my energy expenditure versus calorie intake equation. So; regular practice, experimentation, testing oneself, just getting out there and getting stuck in – they do all make a huge difference. Even if you don’t ever expect to need to feed yourself from the land, but you have an interest in natural history and bushcraft then taking your experimentation to the next level like this helps complete a bit more of the jigsaw.  This is the stuff you can’t learn from books!
My fellow Hunter Gatherers, doing their own thing in another corner of the wood. This is Dave 'the android' Slate
 
Seasonality obviously played a part (autumn is one of the better foraging seasons) but many of the plants I targeted would still have been around during the winter months with the exception of blackberries. Burdock root might’ve been more of a mission although the area I gathered from had first and second year growth hopefully allowing me to identify a source of potential roots from the dead second year flowering stalks during the winter. Admittedly the colder weather would’ve placed a lot more emphasis on gathering a higher number of calories daily. Feeding oneself adequately would be a fulltime occupation and an abundant area would be depleted pretty quick too. Therefore, in this case anyway, location potentially played a bigger part than seasonality. 
Scotty had a cosy set up and turned out to be an expert squirrel catcher
 
I wasn’t able to count my daily calorie intake accurately but it was definitely lower than normal (not a bad thing to be honest..), despite my best efforts to gather as much high calorie food as possible. During the week I lost half a stone in bodyweight! However, rather than feeling low on energy and sluggish, I felt fitter, more energetic, a real spring in my step! I’m no dietician but I put this down to a couple of potential reasons. Firstly, what carbohydrate I was eating was unprocessed, top quality, pure energy. Mostly slow release carbs providing a more steady, regulated type of energy. Some natural fruit sugars were included daily but nowhere near the Billy Bunter quantities of chocolate I consume daily back in the real world. Also, these sugars were needed and used immediately rather than being mainly excess to requirements, accompanied by all manner of dodgy chemicals and giving me mega sugar highs and lows.
 
Guy's little corner of the wood. A well constructed fire screen if ever I saw one!
 
My second theory is based on the wonders of including dandelion leaves in your diet. As a well-known diuretic along with being a healthy green leaf (something I don’t eat enough of) I just feel that my system had a super de-tox, fortified by the fantastic unprocessed, healthy calories coming straight back in. Of course, none of this can be proven (not by me anyway) but my feeling is that had I continued with the experiment a bit longer, my weight loss might’ve reached an optimum level as well as my calorific requirements being slightly lower (already had fire, shelter and plentiful supplies of water and fire wood close by coupled with a more streamlined physique to feed). I’d like to think that in the right location, with no hunting and trapping restrictions (more on this in the next post) then living from the land successfully could certainly be achievable, if not indefinitely then maybe for an extended period. This may well be fanciful pie in the sky on my part but I certainly felt extremely positive after my own experiences.
In the next post I’ll detail how all this excess time and energy was invested to improve my situation by crafting effective hunting weapons, trying my hand at a bit of primitive pottery and other Robinson Crusoe style shenanigans. 
 
 
For Part 3, click here